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Day 31 - Last Day: Pedrouzo to Santiago de CompostelaI've recently arrived back in London and I am seriously feeling the culture
shock. I am no longer used to the scurry and scramble of city life, the noise, the traffic, and the vast quantity of people.
I became accustomed to the silence, the emptiness, and the solitude of the Spanish countryside. It's hard to believe that
exactly one week ago we were in the middle of the Camino, moments away from reaching Santiago.
On August 31st we woke up bright and early, around 6 am. I was unable to sleep the night before despite having stayed in a
beautiful "casa rural" (country house) about 3 kilometers from the Camino. I was excited for the last day but simultaneously
scared and anxious to face the end of such a long and personal journey. After all, I had grown attached to the Camino given
that for 31 days my life depended on it.
Our good friend Pedro surprised us that morning. He had taken a flight
from Bilbao to Santiago and then a taxi to the house we were staying at. We savored the moment of one last breakfast together
and said our good-bye's. We hugged and kissed one another as if it were the last time we were going to see each other. Although
we would meet up again in a few hours, it would be the last time we would say "buen camino," the two most frequently
used words of the trip.
We had Luis' support car drive us to Pedrouzo and drop us off at the exact point we arrived
at the day before. For the first hour of the day, the Camino took us along the highway, as if transporting us back 2 weeks
in time to when we walked to Llanes beside speeding trucks on the "Carretera Nacional." Bizarrely enough, we didn't
see a single peregrino and were convinced we had taken a wrong turn. But when we reached a fork in the highway and saw a cyclist
point out the yellow arrow, we rejoiced in knowing Santiago was not far away.
It was a beautiful day for walking,
not a cloud in the sky and zero humidity. It was hot, but after 31 days, we were used to the heat. We were lucky to find creeks
and fountains where we could dunk our heads under freezing cold water and re-fresh ourselves; that was the Camino's saving
grace. The water brought down our bodies' temperatures and gave us an extra push to conquer the day.
For a good
kilometer, we walked beside a wired fence where peregrinos had inserted two wooden sticks in the shape of a cross. There were
zillions of crosses, all lined up in rows next to, and above, one another. Depending on what sticks the peregrinos had found
and picked up along the way, the crosses were big, small, vertically long, and horizontally short. There was something spiritual
about seeing them all together, something that made you feel like the end was approaching.
After 4 hours of walking, we began to enter the outskirts of Santiago. Modern buildings, cafe's, and shops indicated to us
that we were in a city but not yet inside the old city walls. My phone rang and it was "Television de Galicia" who
had heard about Luis' imminent arrival. They wanted to film him and I was able to coordinate for the cameraman to meet Luis
and capture his last ride on tape.
There are few words that allow me to convey the sensation I felt when I crossed
the finish line and entered the "Plazo do Obradoiro," the main square that faces "La Catedral de Santiago de
Compostela." A surge of awe and pride enveloped me as I stood there, in the middle of the square, dwarfed by the monumental
cathedral. I couldn't believe this moment had come, the arrival, the conclusion, the end to such a long and grueling journey.
As I spun around 360 degrees to feel the warm air of Santiago blow around me, I caught a glimpse of Luis' bicycle coming around
the corner.
I couldn't believe that we had all arrived at nearly the exact same time, another coincidence of the
Camino or as my mother would put it, another "incidencia de Dios" (act of God). In the most graceful manner, Luis
pulled into the square and parked himself right in front of the cathedral. He raised his arms in the air and bowed down as
if he were saluting the statue of Saint Santiago. I ran over to Luis and for a split second kneeled down beside him to give
thanks, thanks to Saint Santiago for watching over us, for keeping us safe throughout the Camino, and for providing us with
one of the most beautiful routes known to mankind.
I wish I could have made time stand still during that moment. It was nothing but magic and love. We congratulated each other,
my father, mother, Maria Luz, Esteban, Pedro, Manolo, Raphael, Freddie, Santos, Luis and I, and embraced each other as a group
and as a team. We really were a team that supported each other, that relied on one another, that allowed each one of us to
cross the finish line. And everyone in that team, every one of its members, played a vital role in making what was once just
an idea become a reality.
This trip would not have been possible without the help of Raphael and Freddie, the two
individuals who drove Luis' support vehicles and kept him safe on the road while he cycled. They deserve tremendous credit
for finding their way in a country they had never stepped foot in and for always keeping a positive spirit, despite waking
up at the crack of dawn.
I am incredibly thankful to the Walkabout followers, the friends and family that joined
us at different points throughout our trip. Their visits gave us something to look forward to and their companionship for
two, five, and ten days provided us with laughter, amusement, and distraction. Thank you Pedro and Ines for your unbelievably
generous hospitality and for making us feel at home in your country. Thank you Daniele for being such a good sport and walking
with me despite the sores, chafing, and blisters. Thank you Ana and Guillermo for your goody-basket, your "sandwiches
de milanesa," and heart-filled emails. Thank you Rosana, Jose Carlos, Ana and Amelia for the Walkabout poster, for the
clean clothes, and your home in Oviedo. Thank you Mati Reynal for stopping in Spain before heading to Buenos Aires. Thank
you to my younger brothers, Diego and Matias, who brought their techno, rap, hip hop, and sheer humor to the trip. Thank you
Manolo for the Iberian treats and for showing us your beautiful hotel. Thank you Maria Luz for coming all the way from Sudan
and never once complaining about her aches. Thank you Titi for taking two flights to come see us cross the finish line in
Santiago, and for letting me be your "roomate" on my last night. It meant the world to me. Thank you Esteban for
being Luis' other wingman and for being part of our family.
There are not enough words to thank my parents for
making this dream come true, for their endless backing and blessing, and their complete selflessness. First and foremost,
thank you to my father for donating the trip and for introducing us to the Camino de Santiago. Thank you Papi for being Luis'
wingman, for your inspiring blogs, for treating us to our most delicious meals in Spain, and for never losing faith in Luis,
Mami and I.
I wish there was a way of showing my mother just how grateful I am for her support, for having been
there for me from the get go, for her companionship in those endless walks, for washing our clothes at midnight, for her stamina,
for being able to walk 800 kilometers at her age, for being my role model, for her advice and wisdom, for the bursts of laughter,
and most importantly for being my best friend.
And finally thank you to Luis for making me believe, believe that
anything in life is indeed possible and attainable, and for showing me a whole new dimension to life. What I achieved is meaningless
compared to what he accomplished, traversing an entire country with just two arms. Walking with Luis in Spain proved to me
that he is not only an inspiration to my family, but also to everyone else he meets along the way. Luis, I admire your courage,
strength, and perseverance more than anything in this world. You are my hero and I thank you for giving me a new purpose in
life.
A Father's Perspective
The final stage of the Camino de Santiago was supposed to be like the final day of the Tour de France when nothing of importance
happens and it is generally a ceremonial entry into Paris. We were to ride 25 kilometers and we figured it would be a quick
ride. We started from Pedrouzo at 2 PM with the sun shining and the temperature well over 30 degrees Celsius. Rapid descents
were quickly accompanied by long climbs. Apparently Luis had made up his mind to sprint to the finish and was determined to
do the ride non stop, not even stopping for cooling when he pours water all over himself. We were able to help with the cooling
by constantly filling our water bottles and pouring it over him in the climbs. One of our support staff would also wait for
Luis at the top of a climb and spray him with large bottles of water. After one hour we were approaching the outskirts of
Santiago de Compostela as all signs were indicating and suddenly as if by magic after a steep climb and a turn, the Cathedral
where the Apostle Santiago is buried could be seen in the distance. At that precise moment, Luis took off his cap and bowed
his head in reverence, knowing that he had completed the journey and I surmise humbly offering his effort to the Saint and
the Almighty.
We then ran into a TV crew from the most important Galician TV station and they began filming Luis'
entry into the Cathedral plaza, the Plaza do Obradoiro. What a spectacle, what a sight what an emotional moment! Monica, Carolina,
Pedro and Maria Luz were waiting and Monica began to cry, letting out all her emotions. After numerous pictures and filming,
Luis and Carolina were interviewed by the TV station and later made the evening news in a beautifully done piece.
Many things go through your mind when you complete such a journey. You surely suffer a letdown as the daily effort is replaced
by sudden complacency. Yet the memories which will last forever will always be a gift that you will keep in your heart and
in your soul. This has been for me the greatest experience as we as a family have bee able to share all these efforts in the
Camino openly with our friends, with all we have encountered and come close to and with those who have supported this just
cause, The Walkabout Foundation.
They say the Camino changes you forever, if we interpret its true meaning I am
sure that we will find this to be true. I am so grateful and proud. Thank you to all from the bottom of my heart.
I believe that the short poem "Invictus" by William Henley applies very well to Monica, Carolina and especially
to Luis.
OUT of the night that covers me, Black as the Pit from pole to pole, I thank whatever
gods may be For my unconquerable soul.
In the fell clutch of circumstance I have not winced nor cried aloud. Under the bludgeonings of chance My head is bloody, but unbowed.
Beyond this place of wrath and tears Looms but the Horror of the shade, And yet the menace of the years Finds, and shall find, me unafraid.
It matters not how strait the
gate, How charged with punishments the scroll, I am the master of my fate: I am the captain of my soul.
link
Day 30: Melide to PedrouzoYou'll never imagine how many peregrinos we saw today. The solitude,
loneliness, and serenity we had experienced over the last two weeks (since we left the Cantabrian coast) was sharply contrasted
with the frenzy, chaos, and noise of today's stampede.
We started off in Melide, which as I mentioned before, is
the town where all the different routes of the Camino converge. The town itself, and therefore the Camino, becomes a potpourri
of different colors, nationalities, and languages. And what's really amazing is the hundreds of people that you see who are
all walking in the same exact direction.
Today's walk was a total breeze, despite being 33 kilometers in total. I think at this point we're just so excited to be so
close to eaching our goal, that we leisurely walk and make sure to enjoy our time together. I made a conscious effort to breathe
in the fresh air and take advantage of my surroundings by admiring every little branch, pebble, and leaf. I proposed we have
lunch on the Camino, literally on the dirt path we walked on, and we set up our picnic on one big slate of stone.
It was fun to watch peregrino's go by while we ate our sandwiches, people from all walks of life. We saw a couple (man and
woman) pushing a stroller with their two year old baby. What a sacrifice is all I could think, their backpacks alone weighed
more than the baby and stroller combined. We saw an entire family from Italy, grandparents, children, and grandchildren. And
we also saw several people walking alone, entirely by themselves, consumed by their own thoughts and emotions.
We
finished lunch around 4 pm and picked up the pace to ensure we arrived in Pedrouzo before Luis. If you ask me, it's hottest
time of the day because the sun has been burning for hours and therefore heating the surroundings, particularly the asphalt
roads. I couldn't take it anymore, my body temperature drastically rose, so I stuck my head under the first fountain I found.
Soaking wet, I arrived at our destinationfeeling refreshed with my mom and Maria Luz.
No more than an hour later, Luis, my dad, and Esteban rode in. As if they were crossing a marathon's finishing line, my mom,
Maria Luz, and I jumped into the street, throwing our arms into the air, and cheering at the top of our lungs. We stopped
traffic and caused the entire town to stare at us, but we didn't care, we couldn't be happier to have completed one more stage
of this long and difficult journey.
Amongst all the other peregrinos that were having dinner, we stopped in our
wet, sweaty, and smelly clothes at a little cafe for a bite to eat. Our family friend Manolo Gullon had come all the way from
Madrid to visit us, an incredibly touching act of kindness. I am eternally grateful to the Camino for bringing us all together,
family and friends alike. It's true that on the Camino we all become one, and one becomes all.
ONLY ONE DAY LEFT!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
A Father's Perspective It seems like the long journey is coming to an end. We are
mesmerized by all the experiences gained, the moments of despair, the feelings of accomplishment and the absolute sense that
we have fulfilled that seemingly impossible quest. Monica and Carolina have exceeded in their accomplishment their and my
wildest expectations and have made me so proud of of their absolute success. The "Walkabout Girls" as they
have been referred to, have significantly furthered the cause they so marvelously represented and so energetically promoted.
Carolina has been the soul and heart of "Walkabout", we her parents are so blessed by her accomplishments.
Luis has been the true banner bearer, the most vivid representation of what is possible and what can be achieved with will
power, perseverance and true grit. He has inspired admiration and brought awe and smiles to so many. He has touched everyone
along his path with his simplicity and "common touch", he is so special, such a joy to be with and so inspiring
to ride with. Thank you Luis. You have truly impacted me forever.
Yesterday we had our last important stage, from
Melide to Pedrouzo, 35 kilometers of rolling terrain with some important climbs. Unfortunately the weather did no befit the
stage as it was the hottest day of the year in Galicia. When we departed the hotel at 4:30 PM, the temperature was 36 degrees
Celsius. The tarmac temperature was probably closer to 50 degrees Celsius. This was an obvious problem for Luis as he rapidly
heated up and needed to cool down repeatedly with water. Nonetheless he pedaled on with determination and we completed the
ride by 8:30 PM.
Along the way we were pleasantly surprised by the arrival of our Friend Manolo Gullon who stopped
on the road and followed us to Pedrouzo. We all had a wonderful dinner served by a very funny woman called Monse.
I would like to express my deepest admiration and thanks to Esteban who has ridden for 13 days with us along all these roads
and who has shown us a deep and loyal friendship and camaraderie which we reciprocate profoundly. He has demonstrated
himself to be a great biker and we will undoubtedly be doing many other trips together. Also to Pedro, who not only walked
for 5 days with the "Walkabout Girls" but brought friends and family to participate in several stages of the Camino.
He also came to bike with us after driving 300 kilometers and did two stages with us. Today he appeared at 9:30 at our
inn after leaving his home at 4:30 in the morning so that he could be in Santiago for our arrival. You are a true friend.
Last but not least, to the youngest member of our group, Maria Luz who has done wonderfully well and withstood all
the rigors of the Camino in true form. You are a true "peregrina". Thank you so much for joining the Camino.
The end of a journey is sometimes as painful as the beginning yet, we are saddened to see it leave us as it hgas become
part of us. Undoubtedly we will all be different at its conclussion. The memories will be with us forever.
Buen
Camino!
link
Day 29: San Roman da Retorta to MelideI can't believe there are only 2 days left! It hasn't hit me
yet, it really hasn't sunk in. I'm overwhelmed by a dichotomy of senses, conflicting feelings occurring at once. On the one
hand I feel as though time has stood still, but on the other hand, I feel as though this month has flown by. In similar fashion,
I am incredibly excited to reach Santiago but I am also tremendously sad to conclude this unrepeatable and extraordinary journey. We started off today at the exact same spot where we left off yesterday: the
point at which the Camino detours from the road and enters the mountain. Thank God we advanced 3 kilometers yesterday because
today's stage covered over 30 kilometers in all. There was not a cloud in the sky and the sun was relentless; it burned down
on us the entire time. We spent the morning walking through
forest and corn stalks, under orchards, over creeks, and between crops. At times we walked in silence, meditating in our own
worlds, while at other moments we shared stories and debated ideas from different perspectives. Between my mom, Maria Luz,
and I, we cover 3 continents (living in US, Africa, and Europe respectively) and two generations, a perfect recipe for an
interesting conversation. It must have been during one of
those conversations that I lost my hat, my Nike baseball cap that I've worn every single day since I started the Camino. I
had taken it off in the woods (given the vast amount of shade) and tied it to my backpack. At some point it must have fallen
and since I didn't want to lose it, my mom and I decided to backtrack our steps and look for it. It wasn't the cleverest idea
given that we never found the hat but lost a lot of time and energy. At
around 3 pm we began to get hungry and promised each other to stop wherever we could for lunch. Around a bend, we spotted
a small table perfectly suited for our picnic. We began to make ourselves at home when all of a sudden, a young girl appeared
from a nearby house and asked us if she could get us anything. The minute she heard us speak she asked us if we were from
Argentina. She responded that she was too. Cecilia told
us that she and her friends had built the table with their own hands and that we could use it to have lunch. We thought twice
about our intrusion and decided to go elsewhere. But before we left she invited us to see where she lived. In the middle of no where, surrounded by green pastures, cows, and rolling
hills, was a tiny stone house that looked abandoned and dilapidated. It was bought a couple of years back by a Spanish girl
named Mapi who has left it exactly as it was. A free spirit, Mapi lives there all year round and invites in anyone who seeks
refuge. This is where Cecilia calls home. She told us she left Argentina 4 years ago to come travel through Spain and never
went back. Cecilia introduced us to Mapi and her other "housemates": Samantha (also Argentine) and two young guys (one Spanish
and the other Italian). All five of them currently live at the house, but have no sense of timing and no direction. A day
can turn into a month, can turn into a year, which is what happened to Cecilia. True hippies at heart, they live each day
as it comes, in the moment, never once worrying about the future or thinking about what it may bring. Because they don't have
jobs they keep themselves busy by doing "cositas" (little things) around the house, for example building and painting
the table we saw earlier.
After leaving Cecilia, Mapi,
and friends I couldn't stop thinking about the movie "The Beach." A hidden paradise that welcomes whoever is lucky
enough to find it, the paradise becomes the nucleus of their lives and their purpose for living. The hour we spent there taught
me two lessons: to live and let live, and to not be judgmental. Over the course of the month, the Camino has shown me that
life takes on different meanings for different people. Famished,
we stopped at the top of a mountain in the middle of the road to eat. We didn't care that we had to get up every so often
to let the occasional car go by. We couldn't have asked for a better setting, by the foot of the gigantic wind mills that
generate power for Spain. An unlimited source of energy equally available to all people, wind is everywhere and anywhere.
It felt amazing to be sitting next to the fuel of the future, mills that harness the power of the wind. We finally arrived in the town of Melide around 6 pm. Melide is where the "Camino
Primitivo" (the path we're on) meets with the "Camino Frances" (the French Way). We expect to see hundreds
and hundreds of peregrinos tomorrow as the Camino Frances is the more popular route. Luis arrived with flying colors at Hostal Xaneiro. We both agreed that this is the most bittersweet
moment. Only 50 kilometers and 2 more days to go...
A Father's Perspective
It seems like the long journey is coming to an end. We are mesmerized
by all the experiences gained, the moments of despair, the feelings of accomplishment and the absolute sense that we have
fulfilled that seemingly impossible quest. Monica and Carolina have exceeded in their accomplishment their and my wildest
expectations and have made me so proud of of their absolute success. The "Walkabout Girls" as they have been referred
to, have significantly furthered the cause they so marvelously represented and so energetically promoted. Carolina has been
the soul and heart of "Walkabout", we her parents are so blessed by her accomplishments. Luis has been the
true banner bearer, the most vivid representation of what is possible and what can be achieved with will power, perseverance
and true grit. He has inspired admiration and brought awe and smiles to so many. He has touched everyone along his path with
his simplicity and "common touch", he is so special, such a joy to be with and so inspiring to ride with. Thank
you Luis. You have truly impacted me forever. Yesterday we had our last important stage, from Melide to Pedrouzo, 35
kilometers of rolling terrain with some important climbs. Unfortunately the weather did no befit the stage as it was the hottest
day of the year in Galicia. When we departed the hotel at 4:30 PM, the temperature was 36 degrees Celsius. The tarmac temperature
was probably closer to 50 degrees Celsius. This was an obvious problem for Luis as he rapidly heated up and needed to cool
down repeatedly with water. Nonetheless he pedaled on with determination and we completed the ride by 8:30 PM. Along
the way we were pleasantly surprised by the arrival of our Friend Manolo Gullon who stopped on the road and followed us to
Pedrouzo. We all had a wonderful dinner served by a very funny woman called Monse. I would like to express my deepest
admiration and thanks to Esteban who has ridden for 13 days with us along all these roads and who has shown us a deep and
loyal friendship and camaraderie which we reciprocate profoundly. He has demonstrated himself to be a great biker and we will
undoubtedly be doing many other trips together. Also to Pedro, who not only walked for 5 days with the "Walkabout Girls"
but brought friends and family to participate in several stages of the Camino. He also came to bike with us after driving
300 kilometers and did two stages with us. Today he appeared at 9:30 at our inn after leaving his home at 4:30 in the morning
so that he could be in Santiago for our arrival. You are a true friend. Last but not least, to the youngest member of
our group, Maria Luz who has done wonderfully well and withstood all the rigors of the Camino in true form. You are a true
"peregrina". Thank you so much for joining the Camino. The end of a journey is sometimes as painful as the
beginning yet, we are saddened to see it leave us as it hgas become part of us. Undoubtedly we will all be different at its
conclussion. The memories will be with us forever. Buen Camino!
link
Day 28: Lugo to San Roman da RetortaWe woke up in Lugo today to yet another article about Luis in
"La Voz de Galicia." It's impressive how much local press he has received, he's a superstar around here. Everywhere
we go people want to take a picture with him and everyone who meets him is curious and eager to learn his story. Lugo is famous for its "Muralla," the ancient Roman wall that encircles
the city. Over 2 kilometers long and 12 meters high, it is a World Heritage site. My mom, Maria Luz, and I initiated our walk
in the main square of the city, "Plaza Mayor," and followed the yellow arrows to the "Catedral de Lugo"
(Lugo's Cathedral). On one of the street corners was a man in an electrical wheelchair waiting for someone. I used the opportune
moment to walk over to him and introduce myself. His name is Aquilino and he is a tetrapalegic, which means he is paralyzed from the chest down but has little use of his arms
and hands, hence the electric wheelchair. I told him about Walkabout and he seemed very intrigued, especially because he has
been working with the Lugo municipal government to make the city accessible. In 20 years he has come a long long way! What
used to be a medieval city full of stairs and steps is now a proud flat city complete with elevators and ramps!
Aquilino introduced us to his girlfriend Macarena, and the two of them gave
us a very brief tour within the Roman walls. He told us Lugo had won the "premio de la Reina Sofia" (Queen Sofia's
prize) for the progress it had made over the years in making the city wheelchair accessible. After exchanging emails and contact
details, we gave each other hugs and went our own way. The
Camino proved to be very pleasant today. For starters, we had the weather in our favor: cloudy, breezy, and cool. And secondly,
the only steep climb we encountered was within the first 5 kilometers. My mom and I decided to walk the mountain backwards
(as awkward and uncomfortable as that sounds) in order to use a different muscle in our body. Typically, we use our calves
to ascend, but by walking backwards, we could use our thighs. It's really astonishing how much my calves have grown, you can
visibly see the difference! We walked side by side, my mom,
Maria Luz and I, chatting and exchanging stories. At exactly 4 pm we found the perfect spot to have lunch, sat down on a rock,
and set up our picnic. This morning we had gone to a supermarket in Lugo and stocked our backpacks with tasty ingredients.
For the first time in 28 days, we made our own lunch out of the food we had bought. Salami, jamon iberico, salchichon, sardines,
crackers, cheese, membrillo, and yogurt, we replenished our bodies with "fuel" (as my father would say) and continued
walking. At 5 pm we arrived in San Roman da Retorta which
is by no means a town despite my book saying so. It's nothing more than a "taverna," stone house, and an "albergue."
Since Luis, my dad, and Esteban had not yet arrived, we decided to kill time by walking further into tomorrow's journey. We
walked 3 kilometers until the point that the Camino detoured off the asphalt road and into the mountain. At that point, we
turned right back around and walked another 3 kilometers to San Roman. Soon after, one of Luis' support cars came to pick us up to take us to where Luis, my dad, and Esteban were cycling. We stopped
the car, go out of it, and watched Luis peddle towards us. You could see him in his zone, entirely focused, looking down at
his arms and at the ground. The road was deserted, not a car or person in sight. It was silent too, so quiet you could hear
a pin drop. All eyes and energy were on Luis as he pushed and pushed forward, propelling the weight of his body and the weight
of his bicycle up the climb with only his arms. You could tell he was tired but he wasn't giving up, not for a moment, not
even for a second.
Luis cycled past us and we froze, we
didn't know what to do. Do we yell, scream, and cry out "animo" to motivate him, or do we remain silent so as to
not distract him or remove him from his zone? We couldn't help ourselves. Watching Luis advance each step was the most inspiring,
moving, and motivating scene I have ever seen in all my life. I say that honestly, from the bottom of my heart, not because
he is my brother but because it's the truth. My mom, Maria Luz, and I were so awestruck that we couldn't help but scream "go
Luis, you can do it" and "you're the best!" He
truly is the best and I am so grateful to have been there at that moment to see it live, to see Luis in action first-hand.
I will never forget that moment for as long as I live. Only
3 more days to go...
A Father's Perspective
Today Esteban and I biked to San Roman from Lugo along the route we should have followed on Friday
and as if by some magical synchronization satelite, we arrived exactly at the same time at the little hamlet as Luis and the
support vehicles. After a light lunch of figs, oriental peaches and tuna and crackers, we began to pedal. The stage was to
be 35 kilometers. We had chosen to ride along very rural backcountry lanes thus avoiding the heavier obnoxious traffic of
the more populated provincial routes. As is common in the "Camino", in every little hamlet or village, our
passing brings out onlookers who make 180 degree turns to watch Luis go by and call out words of encouragement. He seems to
have become a cult figure in the Camino, as everyone linked to it at this time is aware of his trek. I guess it must be because
of the press coverage he has received. Another common feature of the Camino is the barking of dogs. Every village or
hamlet has the little dogs that are loose or the bigger dogs that are generally tied up. In my previous Camino experience,
I saw and interpreted the dogs as angels and the cats as devils. The barking dogs are the angels alerting of our arrival warding
away bad spirits. I saw many a dog chasing a cats away. That is how I developed that interpretation. With Luis I have seen
how he would communicate with the dogs and believe that maybe he holds the same interpretation. The ride today was through
beautiful rural settings. The pavement, however, was very uneven which did not allow Luis to go full speed on the descents
because he would bounce all over the place. This aspect did not allow him to gain the valuable speed needed to shorten the
pedaling time on the ascents. As a result Luis could not get the proper rhythm in his strokes as the course was too uneven in its profile. Once we left
the rural lanes and were 10 kilometers from Palas do Rei, on a better road, he found his groove and entered a "zone"
and he completed the last 25 kilometers to Melide in a little more than an hour. It is incredible to see how much he has gained
in strength and fitness over the last month. Luis must be close to having completed 800 kilometers, I don't know of any person
with his type of injury that has done this ever or in in 30 days. I hope that his quest and his effort will serve to motivate
many to do this and follow this magical and mystical journey. I know that he has motivated our entire family and me to think
of things that never were, and ask "why not?"
Buen Camino!
link
Day 27: Cadavo Baleira to Lugo We woke up this morning to a feature story on Luis and The Walkabout Foundation in "La Voz de Galicia," the province
of Galicia's most popular newspaper. The article, titled "Un Largo Empujon hasta Santiago" (A Long Push to Santiago),
focused on Luis' tremendous feat and how well he has been holding up over the last 27 days. It also mentioned that being in
a wheelchair has prevented him from doing the Camino the traditional way, i.e. staying in "albergues" (hostels).
We were all very pleased with the article and I was particularly happy that the issue of accessibility was brought to the
reader's attention.
Our Camino started off with a sharp
ascent and then leveled off into a forest at the top of the mountain. For about two hours, we walked through tall overbearing
pine trees, where there was not a single sign of civilization: no peregrinos, no traffic, no roads, no garbage, and no noise.
The only sound you could hear was the sound of the wind rustling through the leaves and the chirping of birds every so often.
Although the scenery was beautiful, after two hours of
the same uneventful path, it became somewhat boring and monotonous. So my mom, Maria Luz, and I decided to play a game, a
movie game, to make the time go by faster. Before we knew it we were at the town of Vilabade, home to one of the most beautiful
churches I have ever seen, the "Gran Iglesia Gotica de Santa Maria de Vilabade." The church was closed but we befriended
3 local kids who said they could run to the priest's house and tell him we wanted to see the church's interior. They came
running back with keys and opened the front door for us. It's
always nice to take a moment out of our day to give thanks for all that we are blessed with. I do believe that this can be
done anywhere and at any time, but the "Iglesia de Santa Maria" welcomed the perfect moment of peace and reflection.
We didn't stay long, but long enough for my mom and Maria Luz to squeeze in a game of ping pong. If you can believe it, right
beside the church (practically inside of it) was a ping pong table donated by one of the local neighbors. At around 1 pm we set off once again, following the Camino in the direction
of Lugo. Never once did our book (or anyone else for that matter) tell us that there were no provisions for 18 kilometers.
That implied that for 18 kilometers there was not a single bar, "taverna," store, supermarket, you name it! And
we were definitely not prepared. Almost four hours later,
we were still stuck in the middle of no where, between desolate farmland and forest. The few houses we passed by looked to
be empty and locked down. There was not a person in sight. To make matters worse, we hadn't packed enough food and we had
run out of water! Walking in the scorching heat under the blazing sun, I thought I was going to pass out. The last segment of today's walk proved to be truly unbearable for us. My mom
and I complained of exhaustion and I couldn't help but yell "oh my God" over and over again. My mom made Maria Luz
and I laugh when she said "I have to ask for permission from one leg to move the other." For the first time since
we started this journey, my legs felt like bricks and I had difficulty putting one foot in front of the other. We arrived in Lugo at the exact same time as Luis, my dad, and Esteban. You
could tell by Luis' face that he too was tired. I think at this point what kills us is the accumulation of fatigue, the 27
constant days of working your body without a single day of rest. The more I think about it, the more I can't believe it. Luis,
my mom, and I have gone 27 days without stopping once. Luis told me that today was more an exercise of endurance than of strength. He said it was a fairly easy ride compared to
the last couple of days and that he thoroughly enjoyed it. Before going up to his hotel room, he waited in the lobby with
me for a journalist to arrive. Sergio, the individual who wrote today's article, wanted to come meet Luis and I in person
and write a follow-up story on Luis. We're happy and proud to say that Luis will be featured in "La Voz de Galicia"
again over the next two days. Just over 100 kilometers to
go....we're getting so so close!
A Father's Perspective
Today's stage ride was supposed to be an easy one as we are set to depart the Galician highlands
and head towards lower ground. It was extremely hot, what a change from yesterday. Esteban and I had biked from Fonsegrada
to Cadavo earlier. However as is generally the case in these parts, you always have to start with a strong climb. Just as
we departed Cadavo Baleira at 4:30 PM as we had waited to have the sun go down for Luis' sake, we were faced with a 3 km climb
that given the temperature of the asphalt and Luis ' proximity to the ground made for a very difficult and strenuous beginning.
You must understand that as Luis climbs his body temperature increases rapidly, as he lost his ability to sweat as a result
of his injury, the body cannot cool itself by sweating therefore he must pour water repeatedly on himself. This is tedious
as the more water he carries, the heavier his bike becomes. Esteban, our support crew and I assist in watering him down whenever
his body tells him that his temperature rise is intolerable. It is really mind boggling to see the effort and persistence
he puts into these climbs. The satisfaction he gets when he finishes such effort raises his spirits and puts him a in a type
of "zone" as he seems to gather more strength from God and heaven and from knowing that he is a few kilometers closer
to his final destination. We finished the 33 kilometer stage, which after the climb became rolling hills, and arrived in the
medieval walled city of Lugo. Once again I felt blessed to be part of Luis' team and every kilometer I share with him
is as precious a gift as I could ever hope to receive. I love you my son! Buen Camino!
link
Day 26: A Fonsagrada to Cadavo BaleiraToday was the longest day of the trip, even longer than Day
1. I guess we only have ourselves to blame seeing as we got totally lost, and not just once but twice. In 26 days, it has
never once happened to us before. Oh well, there's a first for everything! Maria Luz, my mom, and I walked out of our hotel this morning and turned left. We couldn't find the yellow
arrows so we asked a person on the street who told us we had to go by the town church. We were happy to be reunited with the
Camino at the "Iglesia Parroquial de Santa Maria" and followed the yellow arrows down a series of streets and alleys.
Before we knew it, the three of us were standing back at the exact same spot we had started from. We made the mistake of turning
left this morning instead of making a right out of the hotel. Thank
God I woke up this morning with energy. For some reason, I felt awake and alive, ready to tackle the day's challenge. It's
astonishing how much stronger my body has gotten and how much more it can withstand. I didn't even realize that we had ascended
a mountain for the first 5 kilometers of today's journey. At the top of that mountain were two small wooden tables, encircled by a railing, and one of the most striking views I have
seen in northern Spain. 180 degrees of nothing but rolling hills, this view was unique because you could see beyond it. The
hills evoked a domino-like effect, all stacked neatly behind one another. My mom stood on the railing, leaned against it,
and threw her arms up into the air. "Hello Spain, hello world" she called out!
Indeed, my mom was on top of the world today. I swear, I don't know how she does it. With very little
sleep (she stays up late washing Luis' clothes and wakes up early to dry them), she walks 30 kilomters a day as fast, if not
faster, than I do. Her stamina and endurance is unparalleled. She is like the energizer bunny that keeps going and going.
To exert herself this way, and for this long, at her age is truly motivating and inspirational. The Camino took us down a valley and directly onto the highway. By 2 pm we were starving. Sick of
our sandwiches (we've been eating the same ham and cheese croissant for 3 days now), we decided to treat ourselves for the
third time in 26 days. We ordered a tuna, tomato, onion, and asparagus salad, and ate like kings! On a full stomach, we got thrown right back into the thick of it and the Camino forced us up a steep
ascent. Not only was the climb steep, but it was also incredibly narrow. Not to mention it was a dirt path full of tiny rocks
and pebbles! Just when I thought I wasn't going to make it, two peregrino cyclists came riding by and said "animo, animo."
Two minutes later I caught up to them and saw them carrying their bikes over their shoulders. The ascent was just too steep
to conquer it with wheels. We became friends with the two
cyclists, Pedro and Manuel, who kindly invited us to join their picnic at the top of the mountain. Neither of them had eaten
and they were both starving. The Camino is all about sharing, giving, receiving, and reciprocating, so what little they had,
they passed around. We ate our snack of membrillo (a fruit-type
jelly) and salchichon iberico (sausage), said our good-byes, and continued forward. We had about another 12 kilometers to
walk and it was past 4 pm. On a good day, we typically walk 5 kilometers an hour which meant that we still had over two hours
to go. We picked up the pace and arrived at a town called Fontaneira. At
that moment my phone rang and it was a journalist calling me from a local newspaper. He had heard about Luis, about my family,
and about Walkabout and he wanted to write a piece for tomorrow's edition. My mom, Maria Luz, and I were distracted and not
paying attention to the yellow arrows. Before we knew it, we were completely lost and in the middle of no where. Unknowingly, we had walked in the opposite direction down a mountain. When
we arrived at a farmhouse and realized we had taken a wrong turn somewhere, we had no other choice but to backtrack our steps.
By backtrack I mean we had to ascend all that we had descended. We
arrived back at Fontaneira absolutely shattered and found the yellow arrows again. We had walked over 5 kilometers in vain,
lost over an hour, and we still had another 4 kilometers to go! Our legs were numb and our feet ached, but we decided to run
to make it to our destination in time to meet with the reporter that had called me earlier. Seeing my mom run after walking 25 kilometers left me in awe. We finally arrived in Cadavo Baleira,
where we met up with Luis, my dad, Esteban, Pedro, and his son Juan, who had all cycled together. We took a group picture
for "La Voz de Galicia" and enjoyed a much deserved cold drink. Over
10 hours and 30 kilometers later, today was definitely the longest day of our trip. I can't believe we only have 5 more days
to go!
A Father's Perspective
Today
was chilly, with the temperature in the 50's. We departed Fonsagrada with Pedro Delclaux and his son Juan at 4 PM. The stage
was to be 32 km to Cadavo Baleira and like most of the region's stages, long climbs are followed by long descents. There seem
to be more climbs than descents, however. Luis generally rides with no wind breaker jacket for most of the ride and it is
difficult for me to understand how in the long descents he can withstand the cold wind of the Galician mountains as we are
permanently at altitudes of over 3000 feet and he generally is damp from the water he pours on himself in the climbs for cooling. Just
out of Fonsagrada, a passing car tooted its horn and some people yelled Viva Argentina!,on seeing Luis' Argentine flag flying
from his handcycle. At the next turn they were waiting for us and asked if they could take a picture with Luis. They were
Argentines from San Isidro, a Buenos Aires suburb and said that this was the best anecdote of their trip when Luis told them
what he was doing. The stage was full of climbs including a very steep one of over 3 kms. As is common in northern Spain, we ride past whispering windmills
that today provide over 20% of Spain's power. It is truly impressive to see all the hills lined of windmills with their blades
slowly turning. Turning windmills mean that there is at least 26 km per hour wind and that can be your friend or enemy depending
on from what direction it is blowing. After a long climb and maybe 10 kms from our destination at Cadavo Baleira, we arrived
at the little town of Fontaneira where a man in a motorized wheel chair was waiting by the side of the road with his wife
and two year old son. He had been told by a neighbor who had passed us on the road of Luis' eminent arrival in his handcycle.
The man in the wheel chair wanted to have his picture taken with Luis. He said to us that Luis was an inspiration to him.
Luis had several pictures taken with the man and his family and as always with a big smile made the family feel that they
could share in his journey. My only regret is that I only have five more days to ride with him and enjoy these anecdotes of
the Camino. Carolina continues to write so wonderfully of her walking experiences with her mother. They are truly inspiring. Buen
Camino!
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Day 25: Grandas de Salime to A FonsagradaWe started our day at the Church of San Salvador in Grandas
de Salime, where we met up with all our peregrino friends. We decided to walk together as a group, in tandem, with Dani leading
the way. I spent the morning getting to know Raquel and Miguel, two peregrinos from the outskirts of Barcelona, who I had
actually met a couple of days back but did not have the opportunity to talk to. Miguel told me that he had walked the Camino
a few times before and that he does so as a means of escaping from his job. He works as an accountant for a mental hospital. The Camino immediately took us on the highway, which proved to be somewhat of a disaster. There were construction workers
all around re-paving the roads, and we were clearly out of place. However, there was no other way to go and we had no other
choice but to trek amongst the trucks and along the newly paved asphalt. Not only was the smell nauseating, but the heat radiating
from the ground was unbearable.
When I woke up this morning
and looked out the window, it seemed as though it was going to rain. I dressed accordingly with leggings, a fleece, a windbreaker,
and poncho. To my chagrin, the clouds disappeared and the sun came out, compounding the heat from the asphalt. Sweating, panting,
and gasping for air, we barely made it alive to a small town called Castro. At Castro, we bid farewell to our friends who wanted to stay behind for a beer (Spaniards drink beer at all
times of the day, including breakfast!), and my mom, Maria Luz and I continued on our way. Walking through the forest, I made
a special note to take advantage of the foliage, knowing that in less than a week's time I will be far removed from such wilderness.
I let it all absorb me, the fern, pine, oak trees, the eucalyptus groves, and the vivid green grass. I felt as though my surroundings
were alive and breathing, as if nature were split into different colored auras pulsating at me. Exactly half way through the day, we stopped at the only restaurant 10 kilometers in sight. Although
on the highway, it was a perfect refuge. We were happy to give our legs a rest after walking for 4 hours straight. We were
sitting outside when all of a sudden, Esteban came cycling by! He said he was riding fast to try to catch up with my father
who was a couple of meters ahead. What a coincidence to have bumped into him! Maria Luz, my mom, and I quickly nourished our bodies with our ham and cheese sandwiches and ordered a "cafe
con leche." Feeling replenished, we were ready for our one last push. We arrived in the town of A Fonsagrada before 6 pm and took advantage of our "early" arrival to rest, relax, and wash our clothes. I still can't believe that we have been walking all day, every day, for 25 days in a row. Because the
Camino is so strenuous, difficult, and long, you are not left with much time or desire to do anything else in the day. At
the hotel, we waited anxiously for Luis, my dad, and Esteban to arrive and started to panic when they still were not back
after 9 pm.
At 9:30 pm they walked in through the hotel
door. You could instantly tell Luis was exhausted. When we asked him about his ride, he said that hands down, today was the
hardest stage of the trip. Unlike the ride from Pola de Allanda to La Mesa, which consisted of long but leveled climbs, today
was all about shorter but steeper climbs. Luis, my father, and Esteban encountered some ascents with inclines of nearly 10
percent. Not to mention that the ride lasted over 4 hours, an eternity for Luis! The best part of today was seeing Luis and my father high-five each other (fist-to-fist) as they said good
night. Before leaving for his room, Luis turned back and looked at my dad and said, "my wingman." I thought that
was the perfect way to end such a perfect day.
A Father's Perspective
There is not much that I can add to the impeccable delightful daily reports that Carolina
has prepared that evoke the special flavor and substance of the "Camino de Santiago". The accomplishment of having
already done more than 600 kilometers on foot under extremely difficult conditions, shows in Monica, Carolina and Luis, an
enormous determination and inner strength without which any person obviously would abandon the journey. I am most impressed
and proud of my girls as they have walked and climbed all across Spain in the most difficult of all the routes of the Camino.
I am amazed at what they have done. I want to give the insight of an old veteran, and somewhat experienced bike rider
of what it is like to ride with your spinal chord injured son through some of the most difficult and beautiful terrain I have
ever seen. I started the Camino Norte in Irun with Luis and did one stage with him and then had to leave for business reasons
only to return on the the 18th of August with our sons Matias and Diego,( both of whom walked several stages before returning
to school), and my close friend Esteban Reynal,( who has been part of all our rides and who has impressed me with his prowess
and dedication). Upon returning, I started the second part in Santillana del Mar to Llanes and then joined the rest
of the family group including Luis in Oviedo. My first outing with Luis together with Esteban, after my return to the group,
was the stage Oviedo to Grado one with over 18 kilometers of the most difficult climbs I have ever experienced. A day that
unfortunately started too early for Luis at 2 PM in the afternoon, the hottest time of day. I've now done seven rides with
Luis in the Camino and I must say that the impact and influence this has had on me will be with me forever. The rides over
beautiful varied scenery all have had long and very difficult climbs, and every time the climb ends, there is another one
around the bend. Luis honored me with allowing me to be his wing man. The extreme effort that he puts in to every revolution
of his hand pedals is awesome and inspiring. We have had several stages in over 100 degree weather where we had to constantly
wet him to keep his temperature down and never in all the rides did he ever consider quitting. Never in the 25 days has he
taken a day off. I loved when we passed little villages and hamlets where people would come out to cheer him on, when
ladies would cry when they would see him struggle with the heat or the climb. We have now done together Oviedo to Grado, Grado
to Salas, Salas to Tineo, Tineo to Pola de Allande, Pola de Allande to La Mesa, La Mesa to Grandas de Salime and Grandas de
Salime to Fonsagrada. In these stages there invariably were climbs of over 14 kilometers non stop with inclines of sometimes
over 10%. My experience with him has reinforced for me the fact that he is capable meeting whatever challenge he is faced
with. He honors his family and his friends and has filled me, his father, with admiration, awe and respect. I am truly grateful
to him for allowing me to share in and be part of this truly epic journey and to be his "wing man".
link
Day 24: La Mesa to Grandas de Salime Yesterday, my father and Esteban were cycling through Tineo and Pola de Allande when they stopped in front of a house in a
small town called San Facundo so that my father could adjust his bicycle's seat. On the second floor balcony of the house
sat two ladies who were mother and daughter, 86 and 61 years old respectively. They called down to my father and Esteban and
asked if they could get the cyclists something to drink.
My
father gladly accepted a glass of cold water but did not want to disturb the ladies and told them not to worry about coming
down. Placeres (the daughter) immediately responded by saying that exercise is good for the body and soul and proceeded to
come down to the street with cold drinks. When my father told her that this was the third time he and Esteban rode this "etapa"
(stage) between Tineo and Pola, Placeres mentioned that yesterday she saw something that left her incredibly emotional. She explained that she saw a young man in front of her house who briefly stopped
to throw water on himself in an effort to cool down. Placeres said that the young individual was on a tricycle, propelled
only by the strength of his arms. She and her mother, Adela, were so fascinated by the cyclist that they brought out their
binoculars and stared at him as he rode off. Placeres said that never once, not in all the years of watching peregrinos go
by, had she or her mother witnessed the courage demonstrated by that young man as he carried his weight (and his bicycle's
weight) with only two arms. Placeres concluded by saying she had stayed up thinking about the boy all night. At that moment, my father told her that the boy was his son and explained to
her that Luis was riding the Camino from Irun to Santiago, over 800 kilometers, with his sister and mother. When my father
gave Placeres a copy of the "Nueva Espana," the local newspaper that Luis and the family were featured in, she broke
down. In tears, she explained that she could relate to the pain a parent feels when something happens to your child because
a few years ago she lost her 28 year old son to Leukemia. In a span of 3 years, she lost her son, husband, and father. This morning, my mom, Maria Luz and I had a car drive us to San Facundo before
we set off on our walk. Not only did we want to meet Placeres and Adela, but we also knew that a visit to their house would
brighten their day. When we arrived and introduced ourselves, Placeres started to cry and invited us into her house for morning
coffee. The few moments we spent with Placeres and Adela allowed us to put things into perspective again and reminded us why it is
we are here and exerting ourselves so much. The love these two ladies exude towards their family (their children, grandchildren,
and great grandchildren whose photographs were on display in every last corner of the house) is a parallel love I have for
my brother and my parents have for their son. Placeres and Adela gave us a fountain of energy to proceed.
We started off on a brutal climb, walking at a very fast pace because we had
left so late. The most beautiful view I have seen thus far awaited us at the top of the ascent: 360 degrees of mountain peaks
with the Rio Navia below. What goes up, must come down. The Camino began to descend and descend, taking us through a winding
forest. The Camino today was completely desolate. Not a
person, noise, car, or airplane in sight, we felt like we had reached the end of the world. An ideal setting for reflection
and introspection, we arrived at the mouth of the Rio Navia that reminded me of a scene out of the movie "Last of the
Mohicans." In order to advance, we had to cross the river dam, which housed a power plant fueled by water. The vertigo sensation of looking
down at the river below proved to be unbearable, and was only augmented as the Camino ascended for the last 5 kilometers.
I practically walked the rest of the day with my eyes closed.
We
reached Grandas de Salime at 5 pm and waited for Luis, my dad and Esteban to arrive. Two hours later, it started to rain and
pour, when we heard a honk from Luis' support car. The whole town turned around to look at him, and we all applauded his valiant
efforts. Soaking wet, the only thing Luis wanted was a hot chocolate. 26 kilometers later, the whole family was together again.
The Camino is about receiving and giving. It's about reciprocating
the love, encouragement, support, beauty, accomplishment, bonds, and friendships that the journey gives you. Our visit to
Placeres and Adela's house today taught us just that.
link
Day 23: Pola de Allande to La MesaWe begun our trek where we left off yesterday, in front of the
"Ayuntamiento" in Pola de Allande with two less Walkabout followers, Diego and Mati, who flew back to the US this
morning. We're sad to see them go but we are grateful for the moments we spent together, bonding on the Camino. The experiences
we shared undoubtedly brought us closer as siblings. It
goes without saying that my mom, Maria Luz, and I had another day of sizzling sun and scorching heat. Not to mention that
the Camino completely deceived us. At first, it took us through a valley, on flat terrain, along a brook, and under trees.
We were made to believe we were in for an easy ride, so we took our time and leisurely walked. Our surroundings reminded me
of the story I read as a child, "A Little House on a Prairie," with nothing more than the sound of a babbling brook
and the silence of rolling hills. All of a sudden, we turned
the corner, and the yellow arrows pointed in the direction of a steep ascent. With no end in sight, we began to pace ourselves,
climbing the mountain one small step at a time. It felt like an eternity, like never-ending torture. Our legs ached, our muscles
hurt, we were short of breath. After ascending for over an hour, we reached a clearing near the top of the mountain where
we could see the "carretera" on the opposite side of the valley. As we sat down for lunch on the grass, I couldn't
help but look at Luis' trail, his Camino, and ponder how on earth someone can climb up such a steep mountain with only their
arms. We continued up the last stretch of the mountain and reached an abandoned fountain where we came across our peregrino friend
Giusep and his dog Luna. Giusep was trying to hydrate Luna with rain water that had accumulated in the fountain's basin. He
had gotten stuck in the mountain over night with nothing to drink and no civilization in sight for over 18 kilometers. We
gave him some of our bottled water and walked with him and his dog the rest of the day.
Upon reaching the town of Lago, my mom, Maria Luz, Giusep, Luna, and I sat down in front of a small
little chapel for a much needed break. We talked about life, family, friends, jobs, hobbies etc., as Giusep told us he was
in the middle of a financial and marriage crisis and hoped the Camino would "aclarar" (clarify) his situation. We
continued the conversation as we walked to the next town, Berducedo. There, we bid farewell to our friend who was staying
at the "albergue," and followed the yellow arrows for another 5 kilometers to La Mesa. It's hard to classify La Mesa as a town because it's really nothing more than 3 houses and another
"albergue." Nestled deep in the valley, it is surrounded on either side by wind farms perched at the top of the
opposite mountains. It's one of the most beautiful places I have ever visited, not only because of the geography but also
because of the serenity of the place. It exudes a sense of quietness and peacefulness. It felt like entering a bubble where
you are shielded from the rest of the world. We chatted
with the cyclist peregrinos we met yesterday while waiting for Luis to arrive, but at 9 pm we still had no word from him or
my father. The sun was setting and we were cold from sitting outside so my mom, Maria Luz and I decided to walk back to Berducedo.
A crazy idea but at least this way we could warm up! At 10 pm, in the dark, rain, and fog, Luis came peddling into Berducedo with my father and Esteban behind him! We ran into
the street to applaud him and quickly gave him a dry change of clothes. They had cycled the last 5 kilometers in the rain
and were soaking wet! We ordered Luis a hot chocolate at a local bar, where he began to talk about his day's adventure.
He told us that he thought that today's climb was harder than riding the New
York Marathon. After all, the ascent lasted more than 12 kilometers! Luis works hard to find his "pace" throughout
his ride, and it's not until he enters that zone that he finds himself perfectly at ease. He explained it took him a while
to find it today and it only happened after he poured an entire bottle of freezing brook water over his head. I asked Luis what he thinks about when he rides. He immediately answered "girls"
and said that girls are a source of motivation for most guys. Although I'm sure many guys wouldn't admit it, I appreciate
Luis' honesty and don't doubt that he's right. He did mention as well that today's ride, at the top of the mountains, made
him feel like he was in an airplane above the clouds. That sensation was pure religion and spirituality as he put it. Luis makes you believe. He makes you believe in something, in a force, in a
power, and in yourself. If he can work his way up that "carretera," that Camino I saw today, with the strength of
his arms only, then you and I can (and should) believe that anything in life is indeed possible. Luis is a living testament
that you can accomplish anything you want, anything you put your mind to.
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Day 22: Tineo to Pola de AllendeA small plaque on the Camino read "el encanto y la magia
nos siguen transformando." I stared at it and thought about its meaning, over and over again. Although it didn't specify
exactly what it was referring to, it was obvious that "the enchantment and the magic [that] continues to transform us"
is in reference to the Camino. We began our day in the center
of Tineo with Walkabout's newest follower, our cousin Maria Luz who flew in all the way from Sudan. Diego, Matias, my mom,
Maria Luz, and I begun our ascent out of the city and into the heart of the mountain. A small cottage made of stone immediately
greeted us with several hand painted signs all around. In front of the door it said "aqui vive el ultimo de Filipinas"
(the last person from the Philippines lives here). Somewhat comical, the little cottage served a purpose. It was meant to
stop the peregrino on his way and force him to catch his breath. We
continued through one of the most beautiful settings I have ever seen. The Camino took us through a path that looked like
an orchard, covered by a natural ceiling of intertwined branches and leaves. We appreciated the shield from the sun as we
faced yet another day of unbearable heat. We arrived at
an intersection that signaled two opposite directions. To the left marked "Camino" and to the right "Monasterio."
At that very moment, we coincidentally came across Dani, fellow peregrino, who suggested we follow him to meet our other peregrino
friends at the monastery. We agreed to go with him, despite it being an uphill detour. Sitting on the front lawn of the "Monasterio de Obona" were over 10 peregrinos taking a break. Most of them we already
knew but there was a group of 4 cyclists that we hadn't met before. Hugo, the youngest of the bunch, was cycling the Camino
with his father and told us that they were heading to Lugo, a few cities before Santiago. Unfortunately, he explained, there
are not enough vacation days in the year!
While all the
peregrinos rested, one little girl exhausted her energy by running around in circles. Luna, a 4 year old german shepherd,
belongs to Giusep, a newcomer to the Camino. Giusep is from Barcelona and initiated his journey in Oviedo with his dog who
he has brought along for company. He carries 5 kilos of Luna's food on him and over the course of 4 days, has managed to shrink
the weight down to 2 kilos. Not long after, we all resumed
the Camino together, walking down the hill in small groups. In pairs of 2 or bunches of 4, we conversed, chatted about our
respective journeys, and passed the time getting to know one another. Before we knew it we had reached the town Campiello,
a perfect location to stop for lunch. At a local bar, Diego,
Matias, Maria Luz, my mom, and I congregated around a small table and devoured our sandwiches. We looked after Diego's blister
(a mean one on the back of his heel) and then continued on our way. It was incredibly entertaining to have Diego and Mati walk with us. We spent the rest of the afternoon laughing and singing out loud. Even though Diego's legs
hurt (Day 2 is always the worst), he made it to Pola de Allende like a true champion. Upon reaching our destination, we collapsed on a bench and waited for Luis to arrive. When his support
car drove by the main square an hour later, we all sprung to our feet and got our cameras ready in hand. As Luis approached
us, we started clicking away, and all of us, mom, Diego, Mati, Maria Luz and I, ran into the street screaming and cheering
him on. Another day has passed and Luis has accomplished
yet another tremendous feat. I wish I could be a fly on his shoulder and watch him propel his entire body weight up these
treacherous mountains with only his arms. But what I admire most, more than anything else, is seeing Luis' determination,
focus, and eternal stamina.
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Day 21: Salas to TineoWhat a fun-filled day thanks to my younger brothers Diego and
Matias! We had an early wake-up call, a family breakfast, and took off before 10 am. The day started off cloudy, cold, and straight up a mountain. What a way to throw Diego into the thick of it, not to mention
he's on antibiotics. We worked our way to the top, through the fog, only to find ourselves at the foot of another ascent.
We climbed up a mound of sand, through a construction zone. Everywhere we looked we saw bulldozers and cranes, not your typical
view during the Camino. But we got out of there quickly and arrived at a small town called La Espina.
What's peculiar about the Camino is that it forces you to always look down at the trail. Because
there are so many rocks and the ground is so uneven, your eyes are glued to your feet. One wrong step, and you can twist or
break your ankle. However, the irony is that if you fail to pay attention to the yellow arrows, you can get seriously lost.
On trees, houses, and posts, the yellow arrows guide you and orient you in the right direction. Therefore, the Camino expects
you to look up and down simultaneously. In the town of
La Espina, my mom and I took advantage of a local bar's washroom. Matias and Diego decided to go ahead without us. When we
resumed the Camino on a dirt road, we heard someone whistling on the highway below us. To our surprise, it was Diego! He had somehow lost Matias, missed the yellow arrow, and gone the wrong way.
While we waited for him to catch up to us my mom panicked about Matias. It had been a while since we last saw him and he wasn't
answering his phone. We walked and walked until we reached
a clearing in the Camino. The most picture-perfect sight, there were two benches on either side of a fountain that read "agua
potable" (drinking water). A small statue of Saint Santiago presided over the fountain, and Matias was lying on one of
the benches with his feet kicked up and sound asleep. We
felt bad waking him up because he looked so incredibly at peace, but the sun was blazing sun and heat was rising and we had
to keep going. We met up with Dani at that point, a peregrino from Madrid, who came to the fountain to fill his bottle of
water. We started talking about our backgrounds and he told us that several years back he had a near fatal car accident that
left him with 150 stitches on his face, a hole through his cheek, and no fingers on one hand. Ever since then, he walks the
Camino every year and explained to my brothers that the Camino is not a sprint but a marathon. Hence, it is meant to be taken
slowly. We walked with Dani the remainder of the day. 26 kilometers and 7 hours later, we reached our destination in the town of Tineo.
We sat down in front of the "Ayuntamiento" (town hall) and watched Luis arrive in heroic fashion.
Flanked on either side by my dad and Esteban, Luis thanked his "wing men"
and said he owed a lot of today's success to them. He said that every few minutes they would pour water on him as they rode
by and explained that they never failed to give him support when he needed it most: at the end of a 9 kilometer climb. Shouting
"animo" and "vamos," my dad and Esteban helped to pushed Luis through to the finish line. We ended the day with a group picture in Tineo's main square. Looking now at
the snapshot, I can't help but think that a picture is indeed a thousand words. Our smiles say it all, a sense of happiness,
satisfaction, pride, and accomplishment. 10 days left and
less than 300 kilometers to go...
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Day 20: Grado to SalasI have to be honest and say that today was not an easy day for
me. I woke up tired, very tired. When I got up from bed and planted my two feet on the ground, I felt an ache quiver up my
legs and run through the entire length of my body. I guess walking 30 kilometers for 20 days straight has finally taken a
toll on me. After a chaotic morning of packing, over sleeping, sibling arguments, and a visit to the doctor (poor Diego has an ear infection),
my mom and I finally made it on our way. Our book said 18 kilometers, but when we reached our starting point in Grado, we
came across a large sign that illustrated the day's itinerary and marked 23 kilometers to the town of Salas.
Before embarking on our journey, we stopped in a small "tabaqueria"
and bought a copy of today's "Nueva Espana." Seeing as it is the province of Asturia's most popular newspaper, the
news agent had sold out of additional copies. We turned the pages and were blown away to see an entire page, in color, dedicated
to Walkabout. The article titled "A Compostela Sobre Tres Ruedas" (To Compostela on Three Wheels) talked about Luis,
his stamina, his family's support, and the foundation's mission. There was a huge picture of our family at the top, and smaller
pictures of Luis, my mother, and I at the bottom. We started
to walk and luckily, we had the weather in our favor. As a matter of fact, it was cool out, actually quite cold. However,
we weren't prepared for the drop in temperature. After yesterday, we expected a similar situation of excruciating heat. But
given that we bid farewell to the Cantabrian coast and have now entered the interior of Spain, the altitude here is much higher.
We are now walking what's called the "Camino Primitivo" (otherwise known as the Original Way) which takes us through
the mountains straight into Santiago. We didn't even stop
for lunch today. Instead, my mom and I ate our sandwiches as we walked. It was so late in the afternoon that we didn't see
any peregrinos. They must have been all fast asleep in the "albergues" (hostels). The last stretch of our walk took us up a steep incline on the highway. It's funny how one's thoughts
and opinions change over the course of the Camino. At first, back in early August, I longed for asphalt, paved roads, and
highways. Today, I couldn't love more the dirt paths through the mountains and nature trails. A t 7 pm we arrived at the entrance of the town of Salas and a sign there caught my attention. I took out my camcorder and began
filming what it said, "todo por la patria" (everything for the country), when a police officer sprung out of no
where and scolded me for filming the police station. He demanded a form of identification and when I told him we were peregrinos
and we didn't have our passports with us (they were in Luis' support car), he insisted that we give him something to prove
who we were or we were going to have to face severe consequences. I immediately remembered the "Nueva Espana" we
had bought that was folded in my backpack and I whipped it out to show it to him. Let's just say he didn't utter a word after
that, he excused himself, and walked away. What awaited
us moments later in la Plaza del Ayuntamiento was priceless. My mom and I arrived at the exact same time as Luis, my father,
and Esteban who had come by bicycle. We stood in front of the main church, "La Iglesia de San Martin" that was built
in the 15 century, and the whole town cheered us on. I couldn't understand why all the commotion, until one man came over
and asked to have a photograph taken with Luis. All of Salas had read the article in the newspaper and knew exactly who we
were! Luis, my dad, and Esteban were famished and exhausted
after riding up hill for kilometers and kilometers. What's amazing is the pace at which Luis rides and is able to keep up
with my father and Esteban. I am honored to be Luis' sister. I couldn't be more proud. Seeing the way people admire him and
cheer him on gives me goose bumps. There are no words to describe the positive impression that Luis has left on every town
we have visited throughout the Camino de Santiago. It is evident that he is not only an inspiration to my family but also,
to all the people he meets along the way.
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Day 19: Oviedo to Grado This morning we found ourselves in the middle of the city of Oviedo, surrounded by parks, bell towers, churches, and a small
bronze statue of Woody Allen. As he once said "Oviedo es una ciudad deliciosa, exotica, bella, limpia, agradable, tranquila
y peatonalizada, es como si no perteneciera a este mundo, como si no existiera...Oviedo es como un cuento de hadas."
I couldn't agree with Woody more, indeed Oviedo is like a fairytale.
The
Camino took us through the city's main street, which led to the central train station and put us face-to-face with an enormous
hanging clock. The time was 11 am, a very unusual and late start for my mom and I. But given that we had two teenagers (jet
lagged) with us, it was to be expected! We zigzagged through
the city to find our way out to the mountain. Right before initiating our first climb, we met two other peregrinos getting
ready to kick-off their journey. They were father and son, Antonio and Juan from Barcelona, who had just arrived by bus to
Oviedo to begin the Camino de Santiago. Juan was 13 years old and had been begging his father all year to take him on the
Camino. He told me that he wanted to meet people, make friends, and that he had heard that the physical pain one endures while
walking has "recompensas" (rewards). I was in awe of his maturity and how eloquently he expressed himself given
his young age. He amazed me further when he ascended the steep mountain with a huge grin on his face. On the other side of the spectrum, my mom, Matias Reynal, Matias my brother, and I were panting, breathing heavily, and seriously
struggling to climb. Luckily, we had each other to lean on and to call on for support. My mom and I would take turns staying
behind to accompany our newcomers. Instances such as these prove to us and show us that are bodies have adapted, changed,
and grown stronger after 19 days of walking.
We found the
absolute perfect place to have lunch, actually better than anything we could have actively looked for. On a small hill perched
in the middle of the valley, right next to a tiny little chapel dedicated to Our Lady of Fatima, we ate our sandwiches and
let the wind blow in our faces. We appreciated the cool breeze after walking for 3 hours under the scorching sun. Another
day of heat, humidity, and sunburns! Around 5 pm, we reached
an intersection where we coincidentally came across Luis' support car. We knew Luis was only a couple steps behind so we decided
to pause there and wait for him. We eagerly anticipated his arrival and when he sped past us, we hollered and cheered him
on, "animo Luis, animo!!" The last part of our
walk seemed like it was never-ending. But then again, the last kilometer or two ALWAYS seem endless. We walked between corn
stalks and tomato crops with not a person in site until we reached a train station with a big sign that read "Grado." Finally, after 27 kilometers, the two Matias', my mother and I had reached our destination. I have to say
that I was very impressed with both Matias' stamina and endurance. They kept up incredibly well even though the second day
is notoriously the hardest. We met up with Luis, my father,
and Esteban in Grado's "Plaza del Ayuntamiento" (town square). We heard from Luis just how challenging today was,
primarily because of the heat. Every few meters, Luis had to stop in the middle of the road to throw water on himself. And
many times, my father and Esteban would ride by and empty their own bottles of water on him. The issue is that because Luis'
bike is so low to the ground, more heat radiates towards him and the sizzling asphalt becomes unbearable. But the heat wasn't the only hurdle Luis had to overcome. He had to ascend
up the same treacherous mountains we climbed with only his arms. Never losing site of his goal and destination, he pushed
and pushed his way through, withstanding the physical pain and agony, and arrived like a true champion at the finish line.
Seeing Luis' smile in Grado made our long difficult day so incredibly worthwhile. Only 325 kilometers left to go...
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Day 18: Pola de Siero to Oviedo We began our day in Pola de Siero with our new Walkabout followers, Matias and Matias! My mom and I were ecstatic to have
companions after so many days of walking alone. After some morning stretches in the "Plaza del Ayuntamiento," we
took off on our relatively short 20 kilometer journey.
The
Camino was kind enough to divert us away from the "Caretera Asturiana" and instead took us along a path beside the
highway. The four of us walked together, skipping, singing, and laughing, while the sun scorched down on us. By mid-day the
temperature had risen to 35 degrees celsius and we were dying! Rationing our bottles of water, we made sure not to get dehydrated.
We took care of each other and kept an eye on our sunburns. The
Camino does not spare you of anything. It throws you into any given situation and expects you to easily handle yourself and
your surroundings. Around a corner, we came across loud sounds, people yelling and crying. As we approached the noise we realized
we were at the back entrance of a psychiatric hospital. We didn't want to intrude on the patients' space but the Camino brought
us face-to-face with them. Once again, the Camino made us think about our lives, our family, our homes, and just how blessed
we are. We continued walking, over the train tracks, and
came in touch with yet another harsh reality. In makeshift tents and trailers, there was a whole family of kids, mothers,
sisters, brothers, and grandparents, running around in the dirt and garbage. They were a gypsy family and sought refuge out
of odds and ends from our everyday lives: tires, bed sheets, torn wrapping paper, broken glass, etc. I stood there thinking
how many unnecessary things we live with, how much excess we have, how many possessions we own that we could do without, and
how we ought to give back. With that thought in mind, we
reached Oviedo just before 3 pm. We were thrilled to welcome another Walkabout follower, my brother Diego who flew in from
Connecticut. We were all completely famished so we went to a small little cafe on a "peatonal" street where no car
traffic is allowed. I crave salads these days, especially fresh vegetables. I was lucky to find the best salad nicoise in
town! Shortly after, my phone rang and I received a call
from a local newspaper that had heard about Walkabout through our friend Rosana. The reporter, Maria, told me that she was
very much interested in writing a story about Luis and the family on the Camino de Santiago for the "Nueva Espana,"
the most circulated newspaper in Asturias. Wasting no time, Maria came to meet the family in Oviedo's main park, "Parque San Francisco." Luis was riding around
on his bicycle and Maria was able to capture him in action! We posed as a family and gave a short interview. We look forward
to reading the article on Thursday.
As we were leaving the
park, I noticed a young guy in a Quickie wheelchair. He was with a young girl and what looked like his parents. I approached
him, introduced myself, and told him all about Walkabout. His name is Robert and he was with his girlfriend, aunt and uncle.
He had a car accident 9 years ago that left him paralyzed from the waist down. Instantaneously we became friends, all of us
and all of them. We stayed chatting on the sidewalk for about an hour. It was the perfect way to end the day. In Oviedo, the whole family together, with our old friends Esteban
and Matias, and our new found friends, the sun setting, the temperature cooling, and all of us feeling a deep sense of accomplishment.
Thanks to your support, every step we take is one step closer to finding the cure for paralysis.
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Day 17: Villaviciosa to Pola de SieroAlthough I pray for clouds each day, I have to admit that I
don't pray for rain. We woke up today to a thunder storm. By 8 am we were on the road, trying to find our way out of the city
of Villaviciosa, in our ponchos. Rain poses several problems for a peregrino on the Camino. For starters, you get soaking wet because no poncho that is light
enough for you to carry is strong enough to ward off water. Secondly, your shoes have no protection therefore causing your
socks and feet to get wet which is a perfect recipe for blisters. Third of all, you can't find your way given that you can
barely see two feet in front of you.
All of these things
happened to us, and more! We initiated the Camino by a small "ermita" (chapel) where there were two yellow arrows
pointing in opposite directions. One arrow pointed towards the city of Gijon, while the other one pointed towards Oviedo.
Because there was so much fog, my mother and I nearly headed in the wrong direction which would have put us 30 kilometers
out of the way. What shocked us was how quiet the towns
were given that it was Monday. There was no traffic, no movement, not a person on the streets. We felt like we were walking
through ghost towns, like we were in the middle of a scene from the movie "The Pianist" where there's only one person
left standing in this world. We walked quietly, my mom
and I, in single file line until we reached The Monastery of San Salvador de Valdedios. Like the towns we had passed to get
there, the monastery was empty too and extraordinarily quiet. I was eager to meet a monk or see a priest but unfortunately, there was not one in site. We visited the "albergue" (room) where peregrinos are allowed
to stay and met three who were shielding themselves from the rain. The two girls, Clementine, were from France and the young
guy was from Cadiz, Spain. All three of them said they were walking the Camino to "find something," whatever that
something may be. My mom and I spent the rest of the morning
hiking up a mountain. I think it's the highest and longest climb we've had thus far. But to make matters more excruciating,
the fog was so unbearable at such a high altitude that we could not see more than a foot in front of us. We had no choice
but to ascend, and so we did, at a very slow pace. Our
only saving grace was the little friend we met along the way. Before initiating the climb, a tiny stray black dog began to
follow us. He trailed behind us the entire way up the mountain, and every time we stopped to catch our breath, he paused too!
Having him as our companion gave us a sense of security. Despite his diminutive size, we felt safe beside him. At the top of the treacherous mountain we arrived at the town of Campo de Alto
where there was nothing more than a gas station and small restaurant. We decided to avoid our sandwich lunch again, and instead
treated ourselves to two fried eggs each! So gourmet! By
3 pm we arrived at La Vega de Sariego, our destination. But seeing as it was still relatively early and we didn't feel too
tired, we decided to continue. On the "Caretera Asturiana" we walked for another 10 kilometers, working our way
to a town called Pola de Siero. In the middle of the highway, to our surprise, we bumped into my father, my youngest brother
Matias, our family friend Esteban, and his son Matias, that were driving to meet us. My mother and I couldn't have been happier
to see more Walkabout followers! Matias, my brother, decided
to walk with my mom and I for the last 5 kilometers while my father, Esteban, and the other Matias went by car to find Luis.
They found Luis in mid-Camino and watched him finish his 26 kilometers! "Caminante no hay camino se hace el camino al andar y al volver la vista atrás veras los pasos
que nunca más volverás a pisar, caminante no hay camino sino estelas en el mar....."
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Day 16: Ribadesella to VillaviciosaToday marks the point of no return! We've been walking for two
weeks straight and we have exactly another two weeks to go. There's no turning back now. I guess all my prayers for clouds paid off! We woke up to an ugly grey day and dressed accordingly,
leggings, sweaters, and ponchos. I am so burnt from yesterday's scorching sun that a day like today is very much appreciated.
We initiated our walk in the town of Ribadesella and the
Camino immediately took us to the beach. Despite being cloudy and very early in the morning, there were people swimming and
sun bathing. What is most amusing about this part of Spain is the way people take advantage of the beach despite the consistently
bad weather. Rain or shine, you see every family heading there every morning with their bath mats, towels, and umbrellas. We walked down the boardwalk and followed the yellow arrows into the heart of farmland. On the Camino, we came across two
couples with their kids who introduced themselves to us. They were from Madrid but what's a funny coincidence is that one
of the men was wearing a t-shirt that said "Casa de Campo, Dominican Republic." What are the chances on such a desolate
trail, in the middle of the countryside in northern Spain?!
By
2 pm we had arrived at Playa de la Espasa, a wide long beach with hundreds of Spaniards on it. For the first time in 16 days,
my mom and I sat down to have a proper lunch. After eating sandwiches on-the-go for the last two weeks straight, we devoured
(and savored) a plate of meatballs and salad at a restaurant on the beach. The Camino provides you with a whole new appreciation
of life's little things. Not only do you learn not to take anything for granted, but you also learn to appreciate a good meal,
a warm shower, a symphony of cow bells, a call from a friend, a walking stick, the smell of eucalyptus trees, compeed, clouds,
and another peregrino on your trail. I could go on and on, the list could be endless. When we arrived at the town of La Isla, our book said to look for a sign with two "conchas"
(shells, ie the symbolic emblem of the Camino de Santiago), and take a left at the sign following the Camino through a dirt
road. My mom and I got completely lost, but to our surprise, sent like angels from God, Lucas and Marisa (our two peregrino
friends) appeared out of no where! We hadn't seen them in several days and as if they knew where they were going, they found
our way through bushes, weeds, and very tall grass. Lucas and Marisa were headed to sleep in Sebrayo, while my mom and I were set to meet Luis at the hotel in a town called Villaviciosa.
We parted ways with our friends and took a highway for the following 9 kilometers. It was never ending and painful, both physically
and mentally. However, around the corner we met 3 cyclists whose bicycles were covered in flags. Intrigued, we stopped them
in the middle of the road and found out that they were French and had been riding for over a year and a half straight across
all of Europe. They were inspiring and motivating. They had traveled from Russia, to Scandanavia, Italy, Spain and all around.
30 kilometers and over 8 hours later we arrived at our
destination. Luis told us about his magnificent ride, how he cycled 20 kilometers from a town called Cangas de Onis to Ribadesella.
Once in Ribadesella, he rode for another 20 kilometers around the beach town and surrounding villages. Luis told me that in Ribadesella he met a man who stopped him. The man was
riding down the veranda in his electric wheelchair and told Luis he had had a car accident 24 years ago. Luis was taken aback
by his kindness, his gentleness, and his welcoming and friendly demeanor. Wasting no time, Luis told him all about The Walkabout
Foundation and they exchanged emails. Later that night,
I spoke to my dad on the phone who asked me about our journey. I told him everything, including that Luis had ridden over
40 kilometers. He concluded the conversation by saying that Luis is a "genio y un idolo." Without a doubt, he truly
is our genius and idol.
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Day 15: Llanes to RibadesellaToday was real a test of stamina and endurance, a perfect example
of the mind game you have to play to succeed at the Camino. After walking 29 kilometers yesterday, my mother and I had to
muster the energy to walk another 30 today under the blazing sun and in the 40 degree heat. Rosana and her husband Jose Carlos are two saviors (and saints) and washed all our dirty laundry last night. We swung by their
house early this morning to pick up our clean clothes and walked with the two of them for the first 4 kilometers of our day.
They took us along the most beautiful path, right on the coast, where we were able to photograph more of the "Mar Cantabrico"
and experience 180 degree views of endless sea.
I don't
have words to express to you just how hot it was today. There wasn't a cloud in the sky and I could feel the sun pulsating
down on me, on my back and shoulders especially. But not only was it hot, it was also humid. You could tell it was going to
rain because the air felt heavy. By mid-day my mom and I
arrived at a beautiful lake with an incredibly serene and peaceful church sitting on an island. "The Iglesia de los Dolores,"
between the towns of Barro and Niembro, invited us to pause for a moment and reflect on our journey, on the last two weeks,
and on our mission. We're here to build awareness for paralysis and disabilities, and thanks to all the friends of The Walkabout
Foundation, we're here to fund research that seeks to find a cure for spinal cord injuries. Our serious thoughts and reflections were sharply contrasted with the comical scene that awaited
us once we turned the corner. The Camino took us right smack through the middle of "Playa de San Antolin," through
people sun bathing, women in their bikini's, men in speedo's, and kids building castles. We looked so ridiculously out of
place, my mom and I, trekking through the sand with our big backpacks and hiking gear. Across the beach, we arrived in a small town named Naves where we had lunch at a placed called Casa
Raul, a small restaurant that opened in 1950. Raul himself was there, probably around 90 years old, sitting quietly watching
the people come in and out. On full stomachs, we continued
walking down a narrow path through the forest. Our book says that this path is known as the "camino medieval," the
exact route that the old pilgrims used to take decades and decades ago to get to Santiago de Compostela. With not a person
in site, we stopped along the way at a little chapel, a tiny little chapel no more than two feet high, to say a prayer. The
little chapel was home to a statue of the Virgin Mary who held a plaque that said "no pasen sin rezar" (don't pass
by without praying). My mom and I both kneeled down, and for a minute the Camino felt like it was ours and only ours, the
world felt like it had halted, and every worry we had disappeared. As
we walked a little bit further we came across a hill full of grazing cows. We marched through the cows, face to face with
them, until arriving at a small church perched at the top of the hill full of peregrinos. We descended from the hill only
to find ourselves alone again on a completely desolate trail. Out of nowhere, a stray dog leaped from the bushes and blocked
our way. Shocked, speechless, and shaking my mom and I stood still. We've encountered dogs all along the Camino, but never
without a leash. We panicked and turned around. We had no
choice but to keep going, the yellow arrows pointed down that path so we had to swallow our fear and overcome our trepidation.
Thank God we had our walking sticks because a second dog appeared out of nowhere as well! We ran until we reached a stretch
of farmland, where again there was not a person in site. Civilization seemed so far away until we heard gun shots. Bullets
began to fire through the air, don't ask us why or how, but we heard one shot after the other. Eight hours and 31 kilometers later, wet from the rain, we arrived at our destination in Ribadesella.
We met up with Luis at our hotel who was about to go out on his afternoon ride. He had been waiting for the sun to cool down. My mom and I watched him get on his bike and adjust himself. He was pumped,
eager, and ready to conquer the day! By 9 pm he was back at the hotel, feeling strong, after having ridden 25 kilometers! Today, we've been walking and riding for 2 weeks straights without stopping.
We've ditched the knee brace, the ankle wounds, and the muscular sores. We're committed to the end, all the way!
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Day 14: Unquera to LlanesGood morning sunshine, good morning Asturias, and good morning to
all the friends of The Walkabout Foundation! Today is the
14th day of our journey. My mother and I woke up very early as usual, around 7 am, eager to complete one more stage of the
Camino but sad to have left behind all of our friends and fellow peregrinos. One of the amazing things that the Camino gives
you is the special bond you develop with the people you meet along the way. These people can be both old friends or new. It
doesn't matter because at the end of the day, it's an experience that you share that binds you together. Having initiated our journey in Unquera, at around 10 am we arrived in Colombres,
a town famous for its Indian architecture that came about during the Asturian emigration to the Americas in the 19th and 20th
centuries. We were able to absorb this Spanish/Indian culture by visiting el Archivo de Indianos, an incredible and beautiful
museum dedicated to this given period. Shortly there after,
the Camino took us from the small quaint town of Colombres to a busy and loud highway. On "la Ruta Nacional-634,"
we found ourselves walking for hours and hours on endless pavement. The cars, the heat, the smog, and not to mention the suction
we felt every time a big truck passed us by, made this stage of the Camino not only frightening but quite unbearable. How could we talk, how could my mom and I communicate? Impossible! For hours and hours we were immersed in our own thoughts
and watching each other's backs, while crossing the towns of La Franca, Buelna, Pendueles, Vidiago, and San Roque. At 4 pm,
we stopped in San Roque, in a camping ground, and caught our breath eating a big bowl of pasta carbonara. The temperature
must have been around 40 degrees and given that we were so tired, a plate of spaghetti and a big "cafe con leche"
felt like the last coca-cola in the desert. Try getting up from a lunch after 6 hours straight of walking. I think it must
have been San Santiago that gave us another push to continue.
By
now you don't even think about walking anymore. Your brain automatically moves your legs and in a robotic fashion, you propel
forward. We are immune to signs and distances however endless the Camino seems. A few more kilometers and we finally arrived in Llanes! We went straight to the hotel where Luis was already
waiting for us. Although tired, we dropped off our backpacks and followed Luis who was going for a ride in the center of town.
In town, we bumped into Rosana (our cousins' cousin) who is truly an angel that God sent our way. She had made a huge banner
with The Walkabout Foundation's logo on it and was waiting for us in town with her two daughters, Ana and Amelia. The five of us kept an eye out for Luis to pass by on his bicycle. When he finally did, we all ran into the middle of the
street with the Walkabout banner and cheered him on as he sped by. We took Llanes by storm! Luis continued to explore the
town, in and out, and every stone and corner. Unfortunately, during his ride, he got a flat tire but luckily we had Rosana
to help us. She immediately notified us of the closest cycling shop and we got his wheel fixed!
What an exhausting but rewarding day. Tomorrow marks two weeks since we've started walking, reaching
our mid-point of 400 kilometers!!
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Day 13: Comillas to UnqueraWhen people tell you that the Camino de Santiago is just as much a
mental challenge as it is a physical one, they hit the nail on the head. This really is a mind game, one that you are constantly
trying to battle and figure out how to win. Today was a spectacular day, not only because of the views, but also because of the company. My mother and I were joined by
Ana, Guillermo, Ines, Pedro and Sylvia (Ines' daughter), and last but not least, Dama (Ines and Pedro's dog). We all met at
a rotunda in the center of Comillas at 9:30 am and began our 27 kilometer walk.
It's funny how the Camino turns your world upside down and reverses your perspective on life and everyday
occurrences. While you typically long for sun during the summer, during the Camino you pray for clouds. I guess my praying
didn't amount to much because it was bright and sunny all day. During
the first half of the walk, we ignored our map and yellow arrows, and instead followed Guillermo's lead along the coast. Ana
has been coming to Comillas ever since she was a child so her and Guillermo know the surroundings like the back of their hand.
They suggested we detour from the Camino and walk along the coast instead, which provided a breeze and much better views.
They were right! The trail was spectacular, along beaches, cliffs, and protected wildlife. At around 1 pm we arrived at the small fishing town of San Vicente de la Barquera and although we
didn't have time to go visit it, I could tell from afar that it was an incredibly charming little place. With a fort, church,
and tons of little colorful boats, the town reminded me of a scene out of one of Ernest Hemingway's maritime stories. In San
Vicente we said good bye to Ines, Sylvia and Dama who, after walking 10 kilometers (and yesterday's 22), called it a day. The Camino pushed Guillermo, Ana, Pedro, my mom, and I up our first climb,
which wouldn't have seemed so bad if it weren't for the blazing sun. Panting, we reached the top of the mountain where we
decided to have lunch on a small terrace/playground peering onto a small church. Lunch was delicious, thanks to Ana's sandwiches
de milanesa! Our lunch was interrupted by a photographer
from the local newspaper La Alterta, who had been sent to photograph us for a story on Walkabout which was said to come out
over the weekend. He took some pictures of my mother and I with our fellow peregrinos and we couldn't help but laugh at how
ridiculous the shots were, some of us sitting on a ledge, others of us standing beside an arrow. On full stomachs we set off walking again, with Guillermo and I leading the pack. We talked about the mental strain the Camino
puts on you and he reiterated to me that it's a long 30-days and best to take it one day at a time. He also mentioned something
that I've heard before but will never forget, "that life is about the journey and not the destination." For some
reason, probably given the idyllic setting, those words reverberated in my head over and over again.
By late afternoon we found ourselves in the middle of the forest in the middle of a mountain, stranded
with no exit other than to continue to climb. We knew we were getting close to Unquera but we were all shattered, hot, and
exhausted. Pedro kept sighing out loud, moaning and claiming that it's best to release physical pain verbally. If it helps
him, to each his own! The way down the mountain was the
hardest part of the day. We came across a mud pond and I stupidly stuck my foot in it and got soaked! With a wet, dirty, and
muddy foot I had to make my way down the vertical slope! The worst part was my mom and her bad ankle. Luckily, we had Guillermo
who appeared like an angel from God and helped her down the slippery rocks (with her walking sticks) one step at a time. If you had tried to write a better ending to this day, you wouldn't have succeeded given the sequence of events that occurred.
When we finally entered the town of Unquera (and the province of Asturias) around 6 pm, we sat down as a group to have some
cider at a local cafe. All of a sudden, the whole town stopped to look at Luis that came speeding by. With his Argentine flag
flapping in the wind and his muscular arms peddling back and forth, we all hollered and cheered him on as he went. He turned
back around and joined us for a coffee, eager and excited to see Ana and Guillermo's old faces. What a coincidence that he
had finished his ride nearly at the exact same time as us, it was perfect timing! Or as my mother would say, "maybe it
was an incidence from God."
link
Day 12: Santillana del Mar to Comillas Magic is the only word capable of describing today's adventure. Ines and Pedro organized for 15 of their Spanish friends to
join us for the day and walk with us from our start point to our destination. I am utterly grateful for Ines and Pedro's support
and all their friends' participation.
Ines had coordinated
for all of us to meet in the Plaza Mayor of Santillana del Mar at 9:30 am where we initiated our 21 kilometer journey. My
mother and I were introduced to all the new faces and were incredibly excited to get to know our new companions. We were also
thrilled to welcome Ana and Guillermo to the group, old friends from our home town in Greenwich who happened to be in a nearby
town on their summer vacation. We began to ascend up the
mountain, walking in small groups but nevertheless, all together. We looked like a heard of cows, or an army of ants, walking
in procession. I stayed behind, towards the ed of the line, and got to know Lola and Marta who are good friends of Ines' from
Madrid and spend their summers in Comillas. Both of them came with their respective sons, Jaime and Alvaro, both 19 years
old. The boys were joined by their friend Jorge and Bea, who is Ines' daughter. Having a bunch of teenagers on the walk made
it that much more fun and exciting!! I was incredibly surprised by everyone's agility and ability to walk so many kilometers in such tremendous heat. A not-so-typical
day for Comillas, the sun was shining, there wasn't a cloud in the sky, and the temperature reached 33 degrees. Nevertheless,
everyone kept up with our steady pace and never once complained (albeit with blisters, jeans, and not the most comfortable
sneakers).
Around 2 pm, after walking nearly 5 hours straight,
all 18 of us perched ourselves on a hilltop and had a small lunch. We lost two friends, but gained an extra two, who joined
us for our picnic. We each brought our own sandwich but exchanged extra's and leftovers. It was like a carousel of food going
round and round in circles! With our "pilas recargadas"
(batteries recharged), we gained strength to push through the last 5 kilometers. We detoured away from the yellow arrows and
decided to follow a different path that one of our local friends recommended instead. The unmarked path took us directly along
the coast, parallel to the water, with the most amazing view of the Cantabrian sea. Pointing out different houses and sharing
each family's different story, Ines' friends made us feel like we were part of their community. My mother and I felt right
at home. When we finally reached the town of Comillas around 5 pm, an unexpected surprise awaited us. Ines' friend Sonia had organized
a banquet of food in her home. The tortilla de papa, croquetas, and pastries were devoured, and we were all blow away by her
beautiful house located right in the center of town.
I dreaded
bidding farewell to my new friends because I longed for time to stand still and hold that moment of today forever. Walking
with 18 people made the whole experience truly magical. There are few words that can describe what it was like to see Walkabout's
following. To compare it to Forrest Gump and his followers is a valid analogy, of course on a much smaller scale. Back at the hotel we waited outside for Luis to arrive from his 25 kilometer
ride. As he came speeding in, I managed to get my camcorder out just in time and film his grand arrival! He told us that on
his last climb, just when he was about to give up, a car drove by and the people inside yelled "animo Luis, fuerza Luis!!"
He didn't recognize who they were, but was pleasantly surprised to have total strangers cheer him on. It turns out it was
some of Ines' friends, Walkabout's new friends, that gave Luis the strength he needed to carry on.
link
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2009.09.01 |
2009.08.01

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